Yut Kee Restaurant preserves KL’s rich Hainanese flavours

In the ever-evolving landscape of Kuala Lumpur, few establishments have managed to stand the test of time quite like Yut Kee Restaurant. Founded in 1928 by Lee Tai Yik, a Hainanese immigrant with culinary roots as a personal chef to the distinguished Choo Kia Peng family, Yut Kee swiftly became a cornerstone of local food culture. Originally nestled at 35, Jalan Dang Wangi, the kopitiam blossomed into a popular gathering spot, renowned for its hearty and authentic Hainanese dishes that bridged heritage and community.

Following the passing of the founder in 1947, the legacy was preserved by his three wives and subsequently his son, Jack Lee, who steered the restaurant through the bustling decades of the 1970s and beyond. Today, the third generation, represented by Mervyn Lee, carries the torch, ensuring that the family’s culinary story continues to be written.

Yut Kee’s enduring success lies not only in its history but also in its faithful dedication to the original recipes that have been cherished for nearly a century. Dishes like the succulent Hainanese chicken chop, the savoury pork chop, and the indulgent roti babi—a golden, deep-fried bread stuffed with minced pork, onions, and Chinese sausage—remain at the heart of its appeal. These timeless offerings, unchanged by passing trends, form the culinary soul of Yut Kee and continue to draw loyal patrons across generations.

Preserving nostalgia

The winds of change swept through Yut Kee in August 2014, when redevelopment forced the restaurant to relocate to 1, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit. Rather than diminish its charm, the move revitalised the restaurant while preserving its nostalgic essence. The new premises, with their vintage marble tables, antique mirrors, and a layout that exudes old-world charm, remain a heartfelt tribute to the original setting. The familiar clatter of cutlery, the warm aroma of brewed kopi, and the comforting buzz of conversations create an atmosphere that feels both historic and alive.

Adding a contemporary twist to its historical narrative, the alley beside the restaurant bursts with colourful murals depicting scenes of everyday Malaysian life. These vibrant artworks not only embellish the space but also honour Malaysia’s diverse cultural fabric, effectively turning the restaurant’s surroundings into an open-air gallery that celebrates the community Yut Kee has served for generations.

A menu rooted in tradition

While the pillars of Yut Kee’s menu remain unchanged, the family has thoughtfully expanded its offerings to cater to evolving palates. The introduction of beef noodles and a rich, hearty beef stew showcases their willingness to innovate without losing sight of their roots. Meanwhile, the weekend roast pork roll has become a celebrated highlight, a labour-intensive dish that rewards patient diners with its crispy skin and succulent meat, embodying the meticulous craftsmanship that defines the restaurant.

Beyond the food, Yut Kee offers a rare glimpse behind the scenes for those fortunate enough to receive special access. A private tour of the kitchen and drink-making station, usually off-limits to the public, reveals the precision and dedication behind each dish. Upstairs, a striking portrait of Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat-sen commands attention, serving as a quiet reminder of the rich cultural and historical threads that weave through the very fabric of Yut Kee.

An enduring beacon

Over the decades, Yut Kee has attracted a diverse and devoted clientele, from everyday Malaysians to curious tourists guided by reputable travel publications such as Lonely Planet. While the restaurant prides itself on its unassuming charm, it has quietly welcomed distinguished guests, including the late Tan Sri Dato’ Dr Yeoh Tiong Lay, founder of YTL Corporation, who preferred to enjoy his meals amidst the bustling crowd, embodying the egalitarian spirit that defines Yut Kee.

As it approaches its centennial anniversary, Yut Kee is more than just a restaurant—it is a living museum of culinary tradition, a symbol of family dedication, and a beloved chapter in Kuala Lumpur’s vibrant history.

Whether it’s for the nostalgic flavours, the welcoming atmosphere, or the simple joy of sharing a table at this storied establishment, Yut Kee continues to offer an experience that resonates far beyond its humble walls.